Abe de Vries
AFGHAN SNAPSHOTS
Thirty thousand feet above the surface of this wretched half moon, one can still sense the dark, ironed drought the map on the screen says would be Turkmenistan. Luckily, a sentimental Indian movie easily produces a drop. Even here, rather than zodiacs or westward wanderings of restless stars, scattered citylights viewed from a widebody in flight, remind you of Christmases at home. Yet it couldn’t be more August.
No summer spent was this unforgiving. Only dust fits the furcoat sellers’ road, foreigners call Chicken Street. Finding no Marco Polo to go with you on a beerhunt, you open the hotelroom window, to let the mind blend in slowly with its environment. The roll-on roll-off sounds of self-repaired television sets glide through hot, thick air, as mosquitoes, with the thrust of helicopter engines, frantically buzz the Shakespeare In Love-theme.
As late arrivals from the wryest of deserts, donkey carts roll by, with wise tribesmen of the deepest dye, sent to roam the ruined streets of this chaotic oasis. Bearded drivers and mad dogs bark much-needed drums in a muezzin’s song. And ofcourse the women, with their faces made invisible; women, homegrown for ages behind the surrounding far away rockwall sounds of silence. Are they counting coins they cannot spend again?
The Philippine girl in the troop was some stone offered, not for free: in return for you-know-what. Life’s everywhere the same. You wonder when’s rain coming and when it’s gonna change into snow. Internationals drink water bottled in Oman and Dubai. Adeeb can’t get a girl. Can’t afford the SIM-cards that should buy him a good start. Be sure you always got ten afghani in your pocket for children, following your airconditioned trail of ice-cold coke and well done kebab.
Spread by stone age Toyota taxicars and jingletrucks, dust wears thin, like a much washed, but never wasted tablecloth. People sweat, swear, shout, breathe in bad air, go to the mosque by day, get blessed, moan and multiply by night. So what, when you’ve won the rarest of successes twice? Come winter, in these rock-covered strongman’s lands one can only hover over, purple coloured poppies grow. And you’ll be freezing, walking up and down a windy strip of some deserted European beach without any snow, flashing your headlights to the enormous sea.